944 buying check

An invoice or service-book entry for the camshaft and balance shaft belts and their rollers. Beware: some workshops only replaced the easier-to-reach balance shaft belt. The water pump is usually changed at the same time. Without proof: walk away, have it done before buying, or negotiate the price and change them straight away.

• Guide value Belt change, recommended guide value: every 4 years at the latest [5]
• Guide value Factory interval (as stated in 2002): every 100,000 km at the latest [6]

Knowledge article: Belt drive at a glance: 8 and 16 valves Sources [1][2][3][4][5][6]

Go through the invoices and service book, especially for belts, water pump, power steering pump and oil changes. An oil change every year is recommended; more than two or three missed years is not advisable.

Knowledge article: Maintenance at a glance: intervals and checks Sources [1][3][4][5][7]

Compare the number on the car with the registration documents. The decoder above shows whether the number matches the stated model and year.

unverified · no source yet

The VIN does not tell a Turbo from a Turbo S (see decoder). The 1988 Turbo S (1,635 or 750 to 1,000 built, depending on the figure) had the M030 suspension, a limited-slip differential, ABS and larger brakes, initially only in Silver Rose. The changed turbocharger can only be recognised from outside by its data plate. Ask for records and option codes.

Knowledge article: The 944 Turbo S and the Turbo from 1989 Sources [8][5][9]

Odometers were often wound back. A worn-through driver’s seat bolster and a shiny gear knob do not fit a low mileage. If the car feels older than the odometer says, be cautious.

Sources [6][7]

A vehicle history check (the HPI check in the UK) is considered essential, because many cars have a troubled past. How to do this depends on the country.

Sources [7]

The 944 stays reliable in old age only without botched modifications. On the Turbo, tuning can reduce reliability. Ask about a changed engine management chip and for paperwork.

Sources [6][5][10]

Has the clutch been replaced recently? Such a car can be the better choice even at a higher price, because the job is involved.

Knowledge article: Clutch: design, wear, replacement Sources [1][5]

From mid-1985 the 944 got, among other things, a new dashboard (the «oval» dash). If dash and equipment do not fit the stated year, ask why.

Knowledge article: Model years: what changed when Sources [11][5][4][7]

Look up the option codes (M codes) and the paint code from the data label in the decoder and compare them with the car.

unverified · no source yet

Look from below and outside with a torch, especially at the rear end of the sills. The body was galvanised from the start; rust still occurs, but usually not badly.

Knowledge article: Rust: where to look Sources [2][3][4][5][8]

Check the rear trailing arm mounts and the front mounts of the rear axle for rust. A repair often goes together with a sill repair.

Knowledge article: Rust: where to look Sources [4][5]

Check the battery tray and its surroundings for rust.

Knowledge article: Rust: where to look Sources [2]

Use a paint thickness gauge to look for heavy filler, especially at the lower front of the rear wings. Mismatched paint and uneven panel gaps point to repairs.

Sources [5][7]

Check the carpets for damp. Old seals almost always leak at some point, for example at the doors, windows, sunroof, rear lights and rear glass. Tailgates can also rattle.

Knowledge article: Rust: where to look Sources [2][3][5][7]

Lift the boot carpet and look. The drain near the fuel filler neck can perish, and water then collects in the wheel arch.

Knowledge article: Rust: where to look Sources [3]

On the S and S2 an additional drive with a tensioner turns the second camshaft; it is a chain with slipper pads. Ask for proof that tensioner and slippers were checked or renewed with the belts. Worn slippers can damage the cylinder head. They are checked under the cam cover.

Sources [5][3][12]

Look between the rear timing belt cover and the block (from below). Oil points to leaking front seals on the crankshaft or balance shaft, water to the water pump, or in the worse case the head gasket.

Knowledge article: Belt drive at a glance: 8 and 16 valves Sources [1][2][9]

Look at the oil filter housing and oil pressure sender, the oil pan, the balance shaft covers, the back of the cam housing (cork gasket) and the distributor housing. A little oil at the filter housing can be left over from a filter change.

Knowledge article: Balance shafts: principle and typical problems Sources [1][2][9]

Check for cracks and brittleness. There have been recalls and engine fires related to these lines.

Sources [1]

Is there a smell of fuel in the engine bay or cabin? It can point to leaking injectors or hoses; look at the pump and filter. A simple test: restart the warm engine about ten minutes after switching off. If it starts badly or runs on three cylinders for a moment, the system is losing pressure.

Sources [2][6]

Read the gauge at cold start and after the test drive. If pressure is low at every temperature, a sticking relief valve is a likely cause; the engine should not be run further. If it never drops below the cold value, the sender is more likely faulty.

• Guide value cold at idle: about 4–5 bar [1]
• Guide value warm: around 2 bar, never below 1 bar [1]

Knowledge article: Engine oil and oil filter Sources [1][9]

Check the dipstick. Even slightly below the minimum, lubrication can fail in fast right-hand bends and damage the connecting rod bearing of cylinder 2.

Knowledge article: Engine oil and oil filter Sources [6]

A light film of oil in the pipes to the throttle body is normal, pools of oil are not. Heavy smoke, especially on boost, can point to leaking turbocharger seals.

Knowledge article: The KKK K26 turbocharger Sources [10] forum only · a lead, not proof

Idle should be steady and even. Too high, too low or hunting can point to a sticking idle stabiliser valve; rough idle to vacuum leaks or the injection.

• Guide value Idle speed (warm): about 900–1000 rpm [1]

Knowledge article: DME engine management and knock control Sources [1][2]

If the engine vibrates at idle and smooths out as revs rise, that points to the engine mounts or a wrongly installed balance shaft belt.

• Guide value Mount-related vibration usually fades by: around 1500 rpm [1]

Knowledge article: Engine mounts: symptoms and checking Sources [1][13][9]

Blue smoke can point to worn valve stem seals or guides, or worn piston rings and bores.

Sources [2][5][7]

Look at the manifolds for cracks and soot on the engine or suspension parts. Manifolds tend to crack between cylinders 1 and 4. An unusually loud exhaust can point to a leaking manifold or the catalytic converter.

Sources [1][2][9]

Are they all there, especially the one protecting the starter? A cracked starter shield can buzz loudly on downshifts.

Sources [1][9]

Check for cracks and brittleness.

Sources [1]

Injector clicking is normal but can mask valve train noise. At high mileage, worn hydraulic lifters can tick. If in doubt, listen with a stethoscope.

Sources [1][7]

A brown, frothy or milky deposit suggests oil and coolant are mixing: leaking seals at the oil cooler in the filter housing, or the head gasket. This is less common on the Turbo, but it does occur.

Knowledge article: Coolant: type, change, bleeding Sources [1][5][9]

Look at the water pump, thermostat housing and hoses. Hoses crack on the inside first and then feel soft. On cars with the Turbo-type pump, the o-ring on the plastic nozzle is a common leak. Coolant loss is a frequent breakdown cause and can overheat the head.

Knowledge article: Water pump: versions and notes Sources [1][2][6][9]

After switching off the warm engine, the pump that cools the turbocharger should be heard running for a while. If it stays silent, the turbo may not be cooled.

Knowledge article: The KKK K26 turbocharger Sources [10] forum only · a lead, not proof

If fitted (to the right of the radiator): check the cooler and lines for leaks.

Sources [1]

Check for leaks, including the clutch hose (damp spots at the crimped ends). A soft or sinking pedal can come from them.

Knowledge article: Clutch: design, wear, replacement Sources [1][2][9]

A heavy clutch or one that bites very high can point to a worn disc or pressure plate. A clunk when releasing the pedal can come from a cracked rubber damper hub on non-Turbo cars.

Knowledge article: Clutch: design, wear, replacement Sources [2][9]

Some play along the shaft is normal; there should be little or no play across it.

Sources [1]

Clunks or uneven tyre wear can come from worn parts. Check the ball joint boots for cracks. On later 944s the ball joint cannot be replaced on its own.

Knowledge article: Front suspension: control arms and ball joints Sources [1][2][14][5]

Floaty, wallowing handling points to tired or leaking dampers. An original factory suspension that has never been refreshed is usually worn out.

Sources [5][7][3]

Check wheels for damage, cracks and corrosion, tyres for tread, cracking and age. Cheap or old tyres hint at skimped maintenance.

• Guide value Tyres are considered hardened from: more than 10 years [5]

Sources [5][7]

If the car sits too low at the rear, tired torsion bars or worn dampers can be the cause.

Knowledge article: Rear suspension: torsion bars and ride height Sources [2]

A spongy pedal can point to air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Knowledge article: Brakes: checks, wear, ABS Sources [2]

Use a torch from below to look for brake fluid at the calipers and lines. On cars that stood for a long time, also check discs and lines for corrosion and ask when the brake fluid was last changed.

Knowledge article: Brakes: checks, wear, ABS Sources [2][5]

If the steering feels loose, tie rods or steering rack bushes may be worn. Check the tie rod end boots for cracks.

Sources [2][1]

Look at the pump, hoses and rack. The hose from the reservoir to the pump often leaks; tighten its clamp carefully, as the plastic nozzle can crack.

Sources [1][2][5]

If fitted: check the warning light and function. ABS was an option from model year 1987 and standard from 1989; it came with the Turbo S.

Knowledge article: Brakes: checks, wear, ABS Sources [2][5][8]

Operate everything once. Slow window motors are common.

Knowledge article: Electrics and the DME relay Sources [2][3]

Do they rise and lower promptly and evenly? Sticking or slow motors are common.

Knowledge article: Electrics and the DME relay Sources [2][6]

Check for corrosion. Poor earth connections cause failures.

Knowledge article: Electrics and the DME relay Sources [2]

Do all gauges work, especially fuel level and oil pressure? The odometer gear in early speedometers can fail and the digital clock display can fade.

Knowledge article: Electrics and the DME relay Sources [2][3][7]

Try the heater temperature control; a common fault that is usually easy to fix.

Sources [3]

The starter turns sluggishly on every 944, even when healthy. That alone is not a fault.

Sources [5]

Open and close it, look at the fabric and seals. The fabric wears first at the top of the B-pillar (stitching); early cabriolets leaked above the door windows, later ones have a revised A-pillar seal. The rear window can be cloudy. Only black and cobalt blue hoods were original.

Knowledge article: 944 S2 Cabriolet and Turbo Cabriolet Sources [15] forum only · a lead, not proof

Check bolsters for tears and wear, especially on the driver’s side and on sport seats; velour wears badly. Seats should not sag and the adjustment should work.

Sources [2][3][4][5]

Common, mostly from sun exposure.

Knowledge article: Dashboard: cracks and removal Sources [2][3]

Is the headliner sagging? Mainly on cars with a sunroof.

Sources [2]

Watch the boost gauge: where does boost come in, how strongly does the engine pull, where does it fade? Too little pressure or excessive lag should be investigated. The factory gauge shows absolute pressure.

• Guide value Maximum boost, stock Turbo (absolute gauge): about 1.7–1.75 bar [1]
• Guide value Turbo S (absolute): 1.82 bar [9]

Knowledge article: Boost pressure and wastegate Sources [1][2][9][10]

Watch the temperature gauge during and after the test drive. If it sits higher than normal all the time, the cause should be found.

Knowledge article: Coolant: type, change, bleeding Sources [1][6]

Gears should change cleanly. Grinding, especially in 2nd or 3rd, points to worn synchros; a notchy or vague shift to wear.

Knowledge article: Gearbox and limited-slip differential Sources [2][3][7]

Whine can come from worn pinion or differential bearings, droning from the torque tube bearings.

Knowledge article: Transaxle and torque tube Sources [2][3][5]

Usually the CV joints; wheel bearings or the transaxle are also possible.

Sources [1][9]

Can point to warped discs.

Knowledge article: Brakes: checks, wear, ABS Sources [2][7]

Possible causes: alignment, tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm or anti-roll bar bushes, tyre imbalance or wear. A clonking nose or shaking front wheels points to worn bushes.

Knowledge article: Front suspension: control arms and ball joints Sources [1][5]